MACRAMÉ, DID YOU SAY MACRAMÉ(S)?
Like the origins of knitting, those of macramé remain nebulous, as there is little information on the beginnings of the practice. Etymologically derived from the Arabic "migramah"and Turkish "mahrama" meaning "fringe", macramé is a very ancient practice that allowed all the threads to be tied to the edge of a fabric, providing a "stopping" function for the threads and of course an aesthetic value in the development of friezes of ornamental motifs.
The origins of the spread of macramé in Europe can certainly be traced back to trade with the Orient. The technique can be found in France and Italy in the 15th century, and is closely linked to the skills of certain lace makers. After several vogues, notably during the Victorian era in England, at the beginning of the 20th century and then during the hippy years, macramé seems to regularly sink into oblivion, only to be reborn again.
Depending on the era, macramé has been used in fashion either as a finishing touch or for accessories such as bags and belts, and in the home for small objects such as rugs, cushions and lampshades. Macramé can also be used outdoors, either as a hammock or as a replacement for sun lounger covers. Objects made from knots are hard-wearing, so macramé has long been a sought-after technique for accessories destined for hard use.
What is macramé?
A little dictionary definition never hurts to get everyone on the same page! Macramé: Quite heavy upholstery lace made from hand-woven and hand-knotted threads (Larousse)
A little background to set the scene
On a large scale
It's when it's hung in a transparent position, such as on partitions, curtains or directly on the wall, that macramé seems to inspire an infinite variety of forms that call for a fascinating application of knotting that can be taken to architectural scale.
Agnes Hansella, a textile artist based in Jakarta, Indonesia, demonstrates this with this macramé installation in Jimbaran, a town in the south of the island of Bali. Made from thick manila rope sourced from the leaves of the abaca plant - the artist has produced this enormous work "Mountain". It is one of a trio of installations she has created with the help of a small team of scaffold-climbed assistants. The asymmetrical patterns, skilfully composed and knotted, designed by the artist echo the landscapes of the region and, at the same time, offer natural protection from the heat of the sun. Agnes Hansella also creates smaller wall pieces suitable for home decoration, which you can discover on her Instagram.
In a more sculptural interpretation... Sandra de Groot, founder of Atelier Chaos, imagines surprising textile volumes to be worn.
Drawing inspiration from sacred architectural monuments from different cultures, she explores the macramé technique, notably in a series entitled kNOTs, to create textile armours that highlight the creative process, technical mastery and creativity, creating a dialogue between the object, the viewer and the creator. Sandra de Groot herself stages her pieces, which she photographs, inviting us even further into her narrative and poetic universe.
Located in the centre of Groningen in the Netherlands, the C H A O S Workshop embodies diversity, crossover, art and design. By experimenting with materials and fusing disciplines in the creative process, the artist explores craft and technique in a sculptural and architectural way. Working with high-quality natural cotton, Sandra de Groot pays particular attention to texture, structure and form, raising, as many textile artists do, questions about the time it takes to make something, induced by the slowness of the technique and the intensity that ensues.
An almost spiritual dimension
At the crossroads of sculptural and architectural dimensions, the architect Roth Azulic also sees macramé as having an almost spiritual dimension: "The union of all the threads creates beautiful, resistant pieces that speak of a heritage that remains alive."
In many cultures, on a symbolic or psychological level, knots represent commitments or blockages that need to be resolved.
This technique, which doesn't date back to the 1970s, but to the ancient Persians and Babylonians, is easy to learn and often uses fairly simple materials, so it certainly hasn't seen its last hour of glory!
Over the last ten years or so, there has been a resurgence of interest in handicrafts and textiles, and a number of artists have revived the image of macramé. The added value of handmade products, their aesthetic and functional qualities, and their apparent simplicity, combine the macramé technique with a return to roots and nature, the anti-industrial par excellence.
To find out more...
- A goldmine! Find a selection of macramé patterns, through amateur and professional manuals, on Gallica - BnF digital library
- Fans of 70s macramé... this page, in English, packed with visuals is for you!
- A full article on the history of macramé "From sailors' knots, to Haute-Couture" by Gaëlle Chevalier, a wedding dress designer combining couture know-how and the art of macramé.
